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2 timing marks on cam gear 94 metro 3 cyl; timing on 94 geo metro 3 cyl
Topic Started: Dec 18 2009, 06:36 PM (8,703 Views)
slock
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Hello. I have a 94 geo metro 3 cylinder that broke a timing belt a few years ago. I was out of town at work and threw a new one on but there were 2 timing marks on the cam gear, 60A and 80A. I picked the 80A and it ran to get me home but it runs very bad. its been sitting and i decided to get it running again. I have searched everywhere online for days and found only 2 topics on the 2 timing marks. One said that the 60 is for 3 cyl and the 80 is for 4 cylinders. the other said you had to set it in between the two. When i turn the cam gear to the 60 position the rotor button is on cylinder 3 instead of one. Is there anyone that knows which one to use without having to take the valve cover off and watch for both valves to be closed? I have the crank gear tuened to where the marks line up and the #1 cylinder is all the way up (assuming the #1 cylinder is in the very front of the motor) the haynes book i have doesnt mention the 2 marks and doesnt have a 3 cylinder in it. Thanks in advance for any answers. :smackface
Edited by slock, Dec 18 2009, 06:40 PM.
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Johnny Mullet
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Kim John Mu

Welcome to the forum. Here is a good pic to help you out............

Posted Image

If it ran crappy, you may have been off by one tooth. It's not hard to be off one. I have done it on both our Metros :)
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chads4dr


yeah what mullet said, but also I think that is wrong about the 3cyl, 4cyl thing, 80C is the correct one, it is 2 degrees of cam advance, 60A is right smack at 0 degrees, so you need the 80C! (actually you may need 80C, but what you really want is a 3tech cam gear which puts you at either 6, 8, or 10 advance) :)

ALSO I too have mistakenly put myself a tooth off, and it ran ok (mullet knows this dont you! IE: Geopalooza) :D
Edited by chads4dr, Dec 19 2009, 12:30 AM.
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Woodie
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That gear originally was used for the twincam GTi engine, one setting is for intake and the other for exhaust. They later figured out it could be used on the single cam engines, just had an extra, confusing mark. If your car runs at all, you used the right mark, it's pretty easy to get it a tooth off though, might look into that.

Pretty sure the 80 is stock, using the 60 will give you some cam advance, but it's a gross amount and not ideal. Can't remember the details, maybe Superf1y will chime in, he knows all. If you use the 60 mark you have to remove the pulley from the cam and re-install it using the other dowel pin hole. Look closely at the center in the picture above, there's two different mounting points for the pulley ALMOST exactly the same distance apart (in degrees) as the timing marks on the outside edge. If you didn't remove the pulley from the cam, and the car runs, you've got the right mark.
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3tech
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80C is stock.
60A is 2 degrees advanced.
Neither will make it run rough, if properly aligned.
That sprocket is not from the GT motor, it is the stock sprocket from some 93, all 94/95 cars. The GT sprocket actually says int/exh on it, and is substantially wider.
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rclose
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Thanks for your help. ^o)

How do you keep the crank Wheel from spining when you torque the bolts down. Is there a pin or something. What about the water pump wheel/pully it is hard to torque these and hold on to them also. :ermm:

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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

Add a small drop of blue thread locker (not the red semi-permanent stuff) or white thread sealant to the bolts. The 411 on Loctite thread locker

Crank pulley - I use a second wrench on the 17mm bolt in the center. Actually I have a 1/2" breaker bar/socket set which is great for axle nuts also. My '91 FSM says to torque them to 8 ft. lbs.

Water pump pulley should have a hole in it. I stick a screwdriver through and carefully select the point on the block that the tip rests on and then I torque the bolts.

I don't see a Coolant Pump Pulley bolt torque but 8 ft. lbs would be close. It works for the other pulley, especially with some blue thread locker. :-/
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Daren Seivewright
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thank you for posting this! I have mine running but used the 60 mark as it seemed to make the most sense as i turned the cam :( it sounds a little like a diesel engine but does run ok. the idle is very high. will moving it to the 80 mark change the idle speed? as well as get rid of the ping?
Daren
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three digit midget
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This is just what I needed today. Having an issue with fuel economy. I have done everything but replaced the pcv valve and 02 sensor. A whopping 25 dollars for both parts. Lol my next thing was to check the timing. When Going up hill it pings. I've tried running 89 octane and still pings. Idle seems a lil high too. I've adjusted old small block chevys but never a engine like this. Any help? LOL
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Murf 59
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three digit midget
Mar 22 2014, 09:11 AM
This is just what I needed today. Having an issue with fuel economy. I have done everything but replaced the pcv valve and 02 sensor. A whopping 25 dollars for both parts. Lol my next thing was to check the timing. When Going up hill it pings. I've tried running 89 octane and still pings. Idle seems a lil high too. I've adjusted old small block chevys but never a engine like this. Any help? LOL
Its best to really start you own thread for issue's. But I would start out looking at your timing for the pinging. Check it with a timing light to make sure its where the FSM wants it to be.
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Hanuman


Daren Seivewright
Apr 9 2013, 06:58 PM
thank you for posting this! I have mine running but used the 60 mark as it seemed to make the most sense as i turned the cam :( it sounds a little like a diesel engine but does run ok. the idle is very high. will moving it to the 80 mark change the idle speed? as well as get rid of the ping?
Daren
if its pinging....check your timing belt, its probably off a tooth....been there, done that :smackface
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